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- Anet A8 Usb Cable Pinout
- Anet A8 Usb Cable Splitter
- Anet A8 Usb Cable Adapters
- Anet A8 Usb Cable Connectors
- Anet A8 Usb Cable Modem Router
- Anet A8 Usb Cable Adapter
Anet A8 Plus is based on the open source project Prusa I3 by Marlin, with this open-sourced feature, users can develop different function according to their needs. The Anet A8 Plus is an affordable 3D printer kit from China, there is no question that so many people like this 3D printer which priced less than $200.
$begingroup$ @Mick Some computers detects as COM the arduino using the USB port, Serial ports normally uses COM1. USB ports can be detected as COM2 or more, for example my computer detects COM5, COM8,COM21, depending whicn HUB USB i'm using. The speed connection will depend on the baud rate which the Arduino was programmed sometimes @ 9600 for low processing and higher rates. Using Repetier by USB cable to Anet A8 - my extruder prints 20mm to high. I have two Anet A8 running on both 21inch Mac Sierra 10.12.4 and mac mini. Thanks to the Anet A8 3D printing community, here is our selection of the 25 best Anet A8 upgrades and mods to improve your 3D printing experience. Anet A8 Plus - Update Board to MKS GEN 1.4 + TMC2208 + 3D Touch With Marlin 2.0.5.1: This change was based on the twhite101 project as well as some of the images contained here.Great job twhite101.
The Anet A8 is a popular cheap 3D printer based on the Prusa i3 design. In most places, the A8 retails for around $150-200, with the price going as low as $130 during a big sale. Nope, that discounted figure is not a typo.
It’s important to judge the A8 based on what it can do for the cost and refrain from comparing it to other products that go for more than double the price. Because compared to, let’s say, the Original Prusa i3 MK3 and the Creality CR-10S, the A8 comes off as an underpowered machine with glaring limitations. But compared to other products in the same price range, it easily comes off as one of the top 10.
First of all, this Chinese 3D printer is a full DIY kit. This means it needs to be assembled completely from scratch. It doesn’t come in a semi-assembled package like the Monoprice Maker Select or the aforementioned CR-10S. Because of this, the A8 is not the most ideal starter 3D printer for a beginner – unless that person wants to learn about what makes 3D printers tick and is willing to do a lot of tinkering at the onset.
There’s a support group on Facebook dedicated to the A8 and other Anet 3D printers. It’s recommended that you check out some of the tips and advice posted there in order keep your mistakes to a minimum, especially during the initial setup. There are reports of this printer causing fires.
The Design
On the surface level, the A8 is not that different from other Prusa i3 clones. It has that familiar open-framed design that most people will instantly recognize. The most noticeable difference lies in the material used for the frame. Instead of aluminum, this 3D printer is housed in an acrylic frame – a red flag to most people since plastic frames are known for being less stable and a lot more fragile than all-metal frames.
The A8 has a single extruder setup and a heated print bed with an aluminum base. There’s an onboard LCD interface at the top of the frame. But instead of the usual knob input, the LCD interface is controlled using a set of small buttons right beside the screen. The buttons are a bit flimsy, though, and can be unresponsive at times.
Instead of being mounted at the top of the frame, the spool holder is separate from the main unit. This design choice is essential to keep the plastic frame from carrying too much weight – an excessive load on a not-so-stable frame can have a negative effect on the prints.
The A8 has terrible cable management – the cables are all over the place. Not to mention, the electronics are exposed. These issues need to be attended to as soon as possible. The messy cables, in particular, can get in the way of the moving parts or come into contact with the heating components, and that can lead to dangerous results.
The overall design of the A8 is … not pretty. Everything is bare. The silver lining here is that the exposed nature of the machine makes it easy and convenient to adjust the moving parts in case there’s something out of place. But most importantly, the open frame design makes the A8 easy to upgrade.
The Features
Similar to other cheap 3D printers, the A8 is not loaded with a lot of features – the thing doesn’t even have an actual power switch, which means the only way to power it down is to unplug it.
The biggest highlight here is the large build volume. This Chinese 3D printer is slightly more generous than most other Prusa i3 clones in the same price range. Having a large build space means you can print more complex 3D models. The A8’s large build volume becomes even more notable once you consider that most products that go for $200 or less are of the “mini” variety, such as the Monoprice Select Mini and the XYZprinting da Vinci Mini.
The A8 has an open filament system, accepting filaments from third-party sellers as long as the filament diameter is 1.75 millimeters. There’s none of that “Our product is optimized for our own filaments” thing from Anet. The Chinese manufacturer lets you use any filament on the market without any conditions or trade-offs that might cause you to look the other way. On a related note, the A8 is also open to different slicers and is compatible with some of the most popular slicers on the market.
For connectivity, the A8 offers the usual one-two combo of a USB connection and the ability to print without a computer through an SD card. This is a standard for Prusa-based 3D printers, although there are a few that offer the SD card option as an add-on instead of an out-of-the-box feature. It’s also possible to add a Wi-Fi option to the A8, but that will require a considerable amount of tweaking.
Lastly, the A8 doesn’t have automatic bed leveling technology, or even an assisted bed leveling system. The entire bed calibration process is done manually. But there are some resellers that offer units already equipped with automatic bed leveling technology, so there’s an option for those not willing to deal with the often daunting task of leveling the print bed.
![Anet A8 Usb Cable Anet A8 Usb Cable](https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/7e/da/76/03/b3/5b7f8032f933694f19648b5577dae426_preview_featured.jpg)
The Setup
This is where things get really complicated. Setting up the A8 is no easy task. The entire assembly and initial setup can stretch out to several days, even an entire week. It requires a lot of patience, maximum effort, and the ability to not throw something at the wall at the first sign of trouble.
The A8 arrives in a well-secured package, with all the parts separated into three sections inside the box and labeled accordingly. There are a lot of parts in play here, ranging from the big frame pieces down to the nuts and bolts. Everything you need to assemble the A8 is included in the box, including some tools and extra parts. There’s no need to solder anything or bring out a heavy-duty equipment for the job.
The first thing you’ll notice is that there’s no printed instruction manual anywhere in the package. Customers have been caught off-guard by this, with some even going into full-on panic mode the moment they realized there’s no physical instruction manual. But don’t worry, there’s an instruction manual included on the SD card, along with links to videos.
For the most part, the assembly instructions are relatively easy to follow, but there are areas that definitely need to be more detailed, especially the ones related to the print bed and the positioning of the rods. There’s a small margin for error during the assembly process, so it’s best to always double-check everything before you move on to the next step.
Perhaps the most annoying part of the initial setup is not related to the actual assembly itself. The plastic parts of the 3D printer are covered with protective tapes, which need to be removed before you start putting things together. There’s a lot of protective covers all around, so removing them can be really time-consuming. But while some people have expressed frustration at the task, others felt grateful that Anet made the effort to make sure the plastic parts don’t get scratched during shipping.
Once the protective covers are off, the assembly begins. As mentioned above, there are a lot of parts involved here. Take the assembly one step at a time and pay close attention to the instructions. If a specific instruction doesn’t make sense, don’t force the issue. Instead, check out tutorial videos on the internet or ask around on the Facebook user group about what needs to be done. It pays to be extremely meticulous during the assembly because even a single error can lead to a completely non-working 3D printer in the end.
In all, the entire assembly process can take anywhere between six hours to 12 hours, depending on your aptitude with electronics and whether or not you already have experience with 3D printers. After the assembly, there are a couple more things to attend to, both of which can be a pain the butt.
First, there’s the manual bed calibration. As noted in the features section, the A8 has no automatic bed leveling technology. Leveling the bed is really tricky, so don’t expect to get it right the first time, even if you have extensive experience with 3D printers and manual bed leveling. And second, there’s the filament loading, which is also a tricky affair. It’s difficult to insert the filament into the feeder. In the worst case scenario, you will have to remove some parts to get it right.
![Usb Usb](https://anderlink.guphotos.com/i/w?u=/images/O/7/OS2517/OS2517-1-3e39-9Wde.jpg)
The A8 comes with a few test models on the SD card, as well as a sample filament. Once you’re done with the lengthy assembly process and the initial calibration, you can start printing right away. Some customers have reported not getting any sample filament in the package, though. Regardless, it’d be great if you already have a fresh roll of filament standing by because the sample filament isn’t really on the generous side.
If you think the entire initial setup sounds complicated and time-consuming, that’s because it is. If you’re expecting to have a smooth time throughout the entire process, then you’re in for a rude awakening. On the bright side, assembling the A8 will teach you a lot about how 3D printing works and the roles of each part of a 3D printer. The lessons you learn will prove valuable down the line when problems start popping up.
The Performance
Out of the box, the A8 is very limited. It’s practically limited to PLA, for one. Using the default print settings, the A8 can successfully print one of the small test models on the SD card, but the print quality is not good. It’s what happens after just a small amount of tinkering that will surprise you.
If you tinker with the print settings and make sure all the parts are configured correctly, especially the print bed, the A8 can produce results with a considerable jump in print quality. The edges become noticeably smoother and the details become more pronounced.
But for the best results, the A8 needs a significant amount of upgrades in almost every area. The A8 has a reputation online for burning down half a house. Like, seriously. It appears that, out of the box, the A8 has overheating issues and lacks the right amount of cooling, especially for long prints. Some of the immediate upgrades needed for the A8 include: getting a MOSFET mod and another power supply unit, replacing the extruder with something more capable, and going for a glass print bed.
Seriously, there’s a lot of work that needs to be done before the A8 can become a safe machine to use and produce the kind of results that you can proudly show off at online 3D printing forums. The good news is there are lots of guides online about how to take the A8 to top form.
The Verdict
Tech Specs |
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Resolution: 100 microns |
Volume: 8.7 x 8.7 x 9.4 in |
Filament: 1.75 mm |
Types: ABS, PLA, PETG, and others |
Weight: 18.7 lb |
Connect: USB, SD card |
The Pros |
---|
Ridiculously low price |
Great community |
Heated print bed |
Onboard LCD interface/td> |
Easy to upgrade |
Open filament system |
Compatible with different slicers |
Large build size |
Includes tools, spare parts, sample filament, and test models |
Anet A8 Usb Cable Pinout
The Cons |
---|
Needs a lot of mods |
Acrylic frame |
Poor cable management and exposed electronics |
No printed instruction manual |
Bed leveling and filament loading can be frustrating |
The Anet A8 is not for everyone. It’s a budget 3D printer that requires a significant amount of mods out of the box, not only for performance improvement but also for safety purposes. But once fully optimized, it brings excellent long-term value and turns into a total workhorse capable of producing 3D models with impressive print quality. But make sure you are perfectly willing to do a lot of tinkering and are prepared to run into dozens of failures before you commit to this cheap DIY kit.
Rating: 3.9/5
Warning; 3D printers should never be left unattended. They can pose a firesafety hazard.
Anet A8 / AM8 SKR 1.3 Upgrade with TMC2209 and sensorless homing - Part 1 - Hardware installation
In this video, I show you how to install the SKR 1.3 mainboard with TMC2209 stepper drivers and sensorless homing into an Anet A8 or AM8.
Hello, my name is Daniel, welcome to the CrossLink channel. Our mission is to help 1 million people getting more successful with 3d printing and if you're here for the first time, subscribe and enable bell notifications so you don't miss anything.
Not long ago, I converted one of my Anet A8s into an AM8 with metal frame but if you are still on the original plastic frame, you can still do this SKR 1.3 upgrade. Technically it's the same steps except you will need a different mount for the mainboard for your frame. I've linked different mainboard mount options in the description of this video, so you have some choice.
Today, I'm going to upgrade this AM8s mainboard to a 32bit SKR 1.3 with TMC2209 stepper drivers and I'm also setting my X and Y axis to use sensorless homing, so I don't need these endstop switches anymore.
I'm going to talk about the SKR 1.4 in a future video, so you will THEN see how that installation might be different.
The main components used in this video are gonna be:
A 3D printed mounting frame for the electronics
The SKR 1.3 mainboard
A raspberry Pi with Octoprint - this is of course optional and can be added later
two MosFets for the Heatbed and Hotend - I would recommend at least to use a MosFET for the heatbed. I am using also a MosFET for the Hotend.
Anet A8 Usb Cable Splitter
At least four TMC 2209 stepper drivers
A 120mm Fan for cooling the electronics, mounted on another 3D printed frame that gets attached on top of the electronics mounting frame
This fan is a 12V fan and since my frame runs on 24V I am also using a buck converter to regulate the voltage for that fan down to 12V or less.
The Mainboard Fan is mounted to another frame that slides on top of the electronics holder Multiple slack accounts ios.
Let's walk through the installation step by step.
First of course, I need to remove the existing electronics holder from the AM8. So I remove all the connections first and then disassemble everything attached to the frame.
Then, I take the new electronics frame and fixed the two MOSFETs to it. These need to be mounted before the mainboard, it's more convenient to reach the counter-nuts from the backside.
Now, Let's have a look at the SKR 1.3 mainboard. The first thing, I made sure is that this red jumper in the middle of the board is set to internal power, not to power from USB.
I am using a Raspberry Pi later to connect to the mainboard and I don't want to power the SKR mainboard from the Raspberry Pi, which otherwise could cause an undervoltage issue at the Raspberry Pi.
Here at the top, we have the sockets for the stepper drivers and there is four jumpers in each socket to configure the stepper drivers connection modes. I am first removing all jumpers from the stepper driver sockets to start from scratch.
And then, I am also removing these 5 RED jumpers here on the right hand side, which configure sensorless homing for each driver. Sensorless homing is a feature that is supported by the TMC2209 stepper drivers but there is also other models that support this like the TMC 2130 for example.
I am configuring the TMC2209 stepper drivers to run in UART mode for this, so I have to install the correct jumpers here right below the sockets. There is a red marked jumper slot for every stepper driver that needs to be set if you like to use UART mode on it. I'm doing this for all four stepper drivers that I'm using in this build.
And then, to enable sensorless homing for the X and Y axis, I need to install two jumpers to the most left jumper connectors here, where we removed the other five jumpers in the beginning.
All jumpers are set - It's time to install the stepper drivers. Make sure you orient them in the right way, the Ground pin, labeled with GND needs to be top right. In the case of the TMC2209, the potentiometer will be on the left hand side.
And now, carefully push the stepper driver into it's slot. I'm doing this for the other ones in the exact same way.
And because stepper drivers emit quite some heat and so need to be cooled, I am also installing the provided heatsinks on top of each stepper driver.
Now, I have a fifth stepper driver slot left, that I could use to drive the second Z-Axis motor from a seperate stepper driver.
But I am choosing to use a parallel connection adapter, that has one input plug and two output plugs, so I can run my Z-Axis motors from one stepper driver.
And now - it's time to mount the SKR mainboard to the mainboard frame.
On the backside there is still plenty of room for an optional Raspberry Pi. I am going to install it to run Octoprint from it and a camera to monitor my prints.
So this electronics frame looks great, very clean and read to be installed to the AM8.
The installation is rather simple, I only need three screws and three T-Nuts, which fit into the metal frame slots, then just a few turns with the hex-wrench and it's fixed.
Anet A8 Usb Cable Adapters
And though it looks like the electronics on the back extend into the build area, there is actually enough space left to fit a hand in between.
Finally, the frame needs a little more fixing on the other side, so it wobbles less. Therefore I used only one additional screw and t-nut, which is absolutely enough to make it really sturdy.
Next, I am installing the power cables, starting with the MOSTFETs, which have a seperate power cable coming from the Power supply. With a another pair of cables, I am distributing power to the second MOSFET.
Playstation network help me chat. Then, I connect the hotend power cables to the upper MOSFET and the heatbed power cables to the lower MOSFET.
The mainboard on the other side has it's own power cables coming from the power supply.
Now, I'm starting to install the stepper motor cables. First I'm connecting the Y-Axis duplicator and then connecting the Y-Axis motors to it. Then the X and Y motors follow, as well as the Extruder motor.
I had to exchange the old three pin plugs for the hotend and heatbed temperature sensors with dupont connectors because the SKR 1.3 only has two pin connectors for those.
There is three connectors on the SKR 1.3 for temperature sensors here in the lower right corner of the mainboard. I connect the heatbed sensor to the right plug and the hotend sensor to the middle one.
I am not using the X and Y endstop switches anymore, so they are left unconnected.
The Z-Endstop switch however, still needs to be connected. In this video, I am going to use the original switch that came with the Anet A8. If you like to know how to connect other probes like these, including the BLTouch to the SKR 1.3, watch out for another video that I'm going to do just covering these sensors in a bit.
You will need to modify the the Existing Anet A8 endstop plug to work with the SKR 1.3. Originally, the cables are on the 1st and 3rd pin and for the SKR 1.3 we need to change the pins to be on the 1st and middle pin.
Anet A8 Usb Cable Connectors
Now what I consider to be the first pin is when you put the plug to the table with the metal connector pins facing up, the first pin is on the left.
You can push down the lock of the pin with pliers and then pull out the pin and push it back into the new slot.
So let's plug that in into the Z-Endstop slot, which is the lower left one of this group of six endstop slots on the SKR 1.3.
Now we connect the hotend and parts cooling fans but there is another change that you need to make to these before doing that.
The existing connectors can be re-used but you will have to swap the plus and minus cables, same method way as I've shown you for the endstop switch - otherwise the fans won't turn.
Again, looking down on the plug with the metal connectors facing up, the black minus cable needs to be right and the red plus cable needs to be left.
After doing that, the hotend cooling fan, that's the one that is permanently running, is going to this slot left of the first stepper motor connector.
The parts cooling fan is going to be plugged into the slot that sits below the first stepper driver.
What's left? Yes, I still have to connect my Display. I'm going to re-use the Anet Full Graphics display, I already installed in one of my previous videos and in another future video, I will show you how to upgrade to the Bigtreetech Color Touch Display on the SKR mainboards.
However, we cannot just plug the existing display cables in like they are. There is some modifications to be done, which are also explained in detail in a guide I found on Thingiverse. I've put that link in the description for your reference.
The guide shows, that you need to remove the nose of the LCD connector so you can insert it reversed into the EXP1 connector on the SKR mainboard and additionally, you need to swap the plus and minus pins, so pin one and two and also pin 9 needs to be connected to the cable of pin 7, while pin 7 is actually left unused.
As I said, the detailed explanation is in the guide, this might be the most difficult modification you need to make to get this build done using this kind of display. But with a little soldering and some shrinktube, I think it can be done in a really clean way.
So that modified plug goes into the EXP1 connector reversed, so the red cable is on top. Finally, accoring to the guide, from the J3 connector on the display, I am just using PIN 7 and I'm connecting that to PIN 3 on the EXP2 connector of the SKR using a jumper wire.
That should be it regarding the Display connection
Anet A8 Usb Cable Modem Router
Now, I'm mounting the mainboard cooling fan and connect it to the same plugs where the power connectors connect to the mainboard - done!
So, the electronics installation is complete for today. In the next video, I'll talk in depth about how I configured the Marlin 2.0 firmware for the SKR 1.3.
I've also linked some other videos for you in these two cards here and here.
Anet A8 Usb Cable Adapter
Hope to see you soon on this channel, See you next time!